Sewing-machine.



J. R. MDFFA TT & H. s. KELSO.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED IAN-4.19I2- 1,209,009, Pate nted Dec. 19,19

5 SHEETS-SHEET a.

J. R. MOFFATT & R. S. KELSO.

SEWING MACHINE. I APPLICATION FILED JAN. 4. 1912.

1,209,009. Patented Dec.19,1916.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4- 5mm 21 W,

rut Nona Pnnu ca. nmmumm. wAsnmamN, v, c.

J. R. MOFFATT & R. s. Kuso.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION MEDIAN-4,1912- 1,209,009. PatentedDec19,1916.

'5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

Grier/mags turned and overseamed, or left unturned or I sra'rns r arnnr@FFIQ JAMES B.'MOFFATT AND RALPH S. KELSO, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS,ASSIGNORS TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ACORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

7 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JAMns R. MOFFATT and RALPH S. KELso, citizens ofthe United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, StateofIllinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inSewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, referencebeing had to the.accompanying drawing and to the letters and figures ofreference marked thereon.

Our invention relates to improvements in sewing machines andparticularly to a movable folder or edge turner for turning the edge. ofthe fabric before sewingfwith means for rendering the-turnerefiective'or ineffective at the will of the operator, and j that too,without interfering with the action of the stitch forming mechanism.

In an application heretofore filed by Henry J. Dahl on the 6th day ofOctober. 1910, Serial No. 585,611, the throat plate of a Union Specialoverseaming machine, such as illustrated in'PatentNo. 962,974, of June28th, 1910, is shown as provided with a stationary edge turner locatedbetween the trimmer and. the stitch forming mechanism for turning aslight fold on the edge of the fabric to be overseamed, the folded edgebeing coveredand stitched down (and if desired, a tape secured theretoalso) by the overseam stitches. e have found it desirable to provide anedge turner which at the will of the operator may be manipulated to beeffective .or ineffective so that on different classes-of goods, or ondifierent portions of the same work, the edge may be fiat andoverseamed, as desired. For example, in the manufacture of pockets andsecuring them to garments, in the hanging or unattached part of thepocket, and where the strain comes, the edge turner is used to fold overthe edge making a strong binding or seam, but when sewed to the body ofthe goods, afiat seam is desired, thus a movable edge turner is usedwhich may be thrown into and out of operation while the sewing isprogressing.

While the invention is of especial value in connection with overseamingmachines, where the edge is bound by the overseaming stitches, and wheretoo, a development of'the Specification of Letters Patent. P t t d D 19,191% Application filed January 1, 1912. Serial No. 669,397. 7

" practical utility, yet it will be understood that we do not wish to belimited to any special type of machine.

An object of the invention is to provide I machine. is in operation.

A. further object of the invention is to provide means for movlng anedge turner, as above stated, wh ch means compr1sesdevices forautomatic'allymoving the turner in one direction. V

The invention also consists in the special.

arrangement of said turner,that is, between;

the trimmer and needle; in the special man- .ner of moving. said turner,that is, diagonally out from the line of the seam; in its combined useas a stitch-finger as well as an edgeturner; and in various othermatters all as hereinafter described andreferred to in the appendedclaims.

an overseaming machine of the type above referred to, embody ng ourinventlon; F g. 21s a vlew partly 1n section, taken through the machineparallel withthe line'of feed, being in effect a view of the cloth platewith the operating parts of the present invention attached thereto,andshowing the presser foot, needle, and parts above the cloth plate;Fig. 3 is aplan view of the cloth plate and throat plate; Figs 4 and 5are enlarged details of the throat plate, with the edge turner indifierent position respectively; Figs. 6 and 6 are views of the seamsformed by the turner and stitch forming mechanism, when the former is inthe respective positions shown in Figs. 1 and 5; Fig. 7 is a perspectiveview of the cloth plate'with our invention applied thereto; Fig. 8 is adetached view of theparts of the turner; Fig. 9 is a detail of theattachment of the turner shank to its operating lever; Fig. 10 is a planview of a modified construction of turner showing it of sufficientlength to act as a stitch finger; and Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig.2, showing the normal position of theturner as in position close .toithethroat plate. and folding the-material, while in the other figures thenormal position isits ineffective position.

In these drawings, 1 represents the bed plate of a sewing machine of thetype above referred to, having the removable cloth plate 2-, thegoosenecli 3, the swinging cover ehth'e trimming anechanism 5, theneedle lever 6, needle bar 7, presser foot 8, and thread carying loopersand 10 cooperating to make an overedge stitch ofthe well known type. Theremovable cloth .plate 2 has secured to it by screws, the throat plate.11, formed with the usual openings for the passage of the feed dog 12,and provided with the needle opening, the cutout portion for .thepassage of the looper, and the stitch finger or tongue 13,.0verwhichthelooper 9 lays its thread.

Slidably attached to the inner face of the eloth-plate-by the slot andscrew connection 14 and 15, is the bar 16 havingthe adjustable stopblocks 17 thereon, to limit the sliding movement of the bar 16 on thescrews .15. This sliding bar 16 has at oneend the curved arm 1S,pivotally cormected to theendot the arm 19 of a lever, the other-arm 20of which has asoeket in which is-secured-by aset screw .23, the shank 21of the edge turner 22. The slide bar 16 has-on its lower edge a ball lug.24- .iitting in'a socket 25 on theupper end of the vertical arm .26 ofa pivoted bell crank lever, the horizontal arm 27 of which has attachedto it a ch ain 28 leading down to the usual.springspressed foot treadle,not shown. A spring 29 attached to the arm 26 and the cloth plate, keepsthe slide bar normally in the position shown in Fig. '1, and the edgeturner operated thereby in the position shown in Figs. 1, 3, and 4:,that is, in position where it will not'turn the edges of the goods shownin Fig. 6 but permit them to be sewed with the :fiat seam shown in Fig.-6. By pressure on the treadle, the slide bar is moved to thepositionshown in Fig. 7; the movement is imparted to the lever 19, 20;and the turner 22 swings into theline of the seam in a diagonaldirection, .to the position shown in Figs. 5 and 2'7, when the seamshown in Fig. 6 will be formed.

The thread carried by the looper 9 is laid over the turner and slips oi?the same onto the stitch finger 18. in Fig. 1 0, the turner :22 islengthened and narrowed to form a double thickness of the stitch fingerwith the stitch finger 13.

In Fi g. 11 an arrangement the reverse of that shown in Figs. 1 and f?is illustrated, that is, the normal position of the slide bar 16 is suchthat the turner is up against the throat plate and turns the edge of thefabric, the spring 29 being vertical and operating on the arm 27.

t'orming mechanism; that it .may act to a greater'or less extent asastitch finger sup plemental to the stitch finger in the throatplateythat all its operating parts are below "the work support, theturner itself simply swinging into a position extending over the top ofthe throat plate; andthat when in effective positionit lies between thetrimmer and the needle and turns tl e edge of the material over onto thebody of the material, within the limits of the ov redge stitchingmechanism.

In the use 0'5 the arrangement shown in Fig. I10,.and by making thetongue extension of the edge turner cit-sufficient length, it will vbenoted that it will be possible to dispense with the tongue on the throatplate. lit will also be noted in this connection, as well as in theconstruction of the edge turner shown in the other figures ofthedrawings, that the turner .makes a housin or casino coverin b a to thethroat plate tongueon both sides thereof, thereby protecting said throatplate tongue against being struck by the needle in its descent. 1

As shown in Figs. l and 5,the throat plate is provided with-a projectingledge 30, upon which the edge turner rests when thrown into operativeposition, thereby supporting the same.

Various modifications andchan'ges may be 1:

made in the construction of the parts of this device, without departingfrom the spirit of our invention.

Having thus particularly described our invention, what we claim as newand desire c of the material, and means for rendering said foldereifectiveor ineffective.

2. A sewing machine including in combination, feeding mechanism,overedge stitch forming mechanism, a device for engaging the edge of thematerial and turning the same over on to the body of the material withinthe limits of the overedge stitch forming mechanism, said device beingdisposed adjacent the stitch forming mechanism, whereby said folded edgeis inclosed by the stitch forming mechanism as it leaves the folder, andmeans under the control of the operator I for moving said device intoand out of effective operation. A

3. A sewing machine including in comr by the stitch forming mechanism-asit leaves same over onto the body of .the material bination, feedingmechanism, overedge stitch forming mechanism, a device for-engaging heedge of the material :andturningjthe within the: limits of ,the overedgestitch formlng mechan1sm,-sa1d devicc'belng disposed adjacent the stitchforming mechanism, whereby said folded edge-is inclosed he folder, andmeans under the control of the operator for movmg said devicediagonally'into and out of the l1ne of seanr 1 4. A sewing machineincluding in combination, feeding mechanism, overedge stitch formmgmechanism, a device for engaging the edge of the material and turnlngthe within the limits of the overedge'stitch forming mechanism, wherebysaid folded edge is inclosed by the stitch forming mechanism,

and means under the control of the operator for moving said devicediagonally into and out of. the line of seam,lsaid device also acting asa stitch finger over which the stitches are formed.

5. A sewing; machine including in combination over edge stitch formingmechanism,

7 ing and folding the edge of the material V overedge stitches, andmeans for rendering] said folder and stitch finger effective or in-Ieffective during the operation of the maneath the stitches.

stitch fingerinto and'out of theline of seam i diagonally thereof,whereby said folded edge is covered by the overedge stitches, and" afolder for-turning over the edge of the material on to the body thereof,said folder being disposed relative to the stitch forming mechanismwhereby the stitches are laid over said folder and are fed off fromthefolder on to the folded edgeof the fabric, and meansfor moving saidfolder from-effective to 'inefiective position, including manuallycontrolled means for movingth'e folder in'one direction, and automaticmeans for moving the folder in the other direction.

I 6. A sewing machine including in combination,feeding mechanism, athroat plate,

overedge stitch forming mechanism,a combined folder and stitch finger,said folder extending above the throat plate for engagwhereby saidfolded edge is covered by the chine. r 7

7. A sewing machine including in combination, feeding mechanism, athroat plate, overedge stitch forming mechanism, of a combined folderandstitch finger, said folder extending above the throat plate forengaging and folding the edge of the material, means for moving saidfolder and means for rendering said folder and stitch finger effectiveor ineffective during the operation of the machine. 7 f

8. A sewin machine including in combination, feeding mechanism,overseaming stitching mechanism, a folder for turning with the fabric.

thereof, 1 said :folder ,loeing disposed relative [to the stitchingmechanism, whereby stitches same" over on torthe body of the materialng: in combi- 7 over the edge of the material onto the body I thereof,said folder being disposed relative to the stitching mechanism, wherebystitches are laid over the folder and arev fed off of the same onto thevfolded edge of the mate- 1 rial, and means for movingthe folder into andout of operative position relative to the v stitching mechanism withoutstopping the stitching mechanism.

:10. In a sewing machine and in co'mbi nation, a devicefor turning theedge of the fabric during itspassage to the stitch-form-- ing device,said device being provided with means to protectthe turned edge fromcon- I tact with the thread during the period of-v time thatthe turningaction of the fabric i takes place, and means for moving said deviceinto and out of operative position without stopping the machine.

' 11. In a sewing machine, a needle, a trim mingdevice for the edgeofthe fabric, a

device in rear of said trimmer and in 'advance of said needle," saiddevice being formed with a recess in the' side thereof adj a centv saidneedle, which recess extends from move said device into and out ofengagement 12. In a sewing machine and in combina- I "tion, astitchsforming, mechanism, a tongue and a device for forming the stitchover said 1 gtongue, a sccondtongue mounted in a plane above said firsttongue, and meanswhereby V p out of saidloperative position, said m0ve jmentvbeing toward thefront of the machine one of said'tongues can-bethrown into and,

ion

front to rear of said device, and means to.

whereby said tongue is withdrawn from b'e- I 18. In a sewing machine andin combination, stitch-forming mechanism including.

a plurality of tongues over, which the stitch is laid 'duringtheformation of the seam, v

means located upon the opposite sides .of

said tongues to deposit a thread over the 1 same, and means whereby voneof said tongues if can be withdrawnv from said seam at the will of theoperator and while the, machine plurality of tongues over which thestitch is laid duringfthe formation of the seam, means for forming thestitch overjsaid tongues,*'

and means whereby one of said tongues can

